Cycletouring in Ireland

Three weeks after coming back from Ireland I have finally had a chance to start writing. I have to say it's magic - going through the notes I can feel my heart quickening and once again I am in Ulster in the spring. The waterfalls rushing down the sides of the Glens and I feel giddy from the sweet smell of the yellow gorse.
I only hope I can capture some of the magic in my writing.

"There are 184 English people in Newcastle," Lawrence told me after asking where I was from. I thought he was joking and laughed as I said, "You've counted them?" But I really think he had.
He was well into his sixties but still had sharp, clear grey eyes and the grin of a teenager. "Now Mrs Mackintosh is from Derbyshire," he continued and then recounted her family history which included marrying a Scotsman - hence the Scottish surname.

Dingle has a new aquarium - must have cost an absolute packet - so I guess they are building on the success of 'Fungie' the resident harbour dolphin.
But was it money well spent? I was sat on the quay munching on a few scones. Next to me some kind soul who was moving on had left a carton of milk with 'Free Milk' written on it.
A group of three Australians thought this was hilarious and out came the cameras - oh well their ancestors were probably transported for taking less than a pint of milk - but some germans though this was a great photo op too, then some Scandinavians...

July's trip to Ireland was a very abbreviated one with other work commitments keeping the trip to four weeks. In that time I tidied up the Sligo section, did the whole of Connemara and squezed in a working holiday on the Aran Islands with Shooey.
The Aran Islands were a highlight - particulary the wild and windy Inisheer. This encouraged me to try a few of the Co Clare islands, including Clare Island, and Inishbofin, all of which give a very different perspective to Irish life.

Stage one of the field research is over and I am back in London.So far I have done the routes from Belfast to Derry and back through the Sperrins, the Donegal marathon from Derry to Donegal town, Donegal to Sligo via the Fermanagh lakes and the route from Sligo to Belfast.
The speedo reads 2322km and a spectacular 26603m climbed. Physically I held up pretty well, although I have lost about half a stone in weight. The bike fared OK apart from the wheels (smashed two rear wheels and bust four spokes in the front - more of that later).

You can always count on the weather in Ireland - count on it being wet that is!
Today's ride was through the Sperrins from Derry towards Armagh. After a few delays finding a decent route out of Derry and a couple of wrong turns the light cloud lifted and I stopped to atke off my jackey and don sunscreen and sunglasses - then ten minutes later the rain was thundering down like htere was no tomorrow. I hid in a bus shelter for half an hour but there was no alternative - I had to hit the road again.

STILL madly busy at work so have done little on the book. Spent an afternoon fiddling with the bike - put on the new mudguards and new carriers. Also retaped the handlebars.
It's amazing how much difference some nice sort cork tape makes - after the thin 25-year-old vinyl stuff it adds a real air of luxury.

THINGS have been very quiet on the book front. About the only thing I have got done is putting an 12-32 freewheel on the rear wheel.
The old freewheel had a Normandy fitting and I didn't have the right extractor, neither did two bike shops. Evans at London Bridge got it off for me, albeit destructively.
Fitting the new one was pretty simple and a ride to hockey training on Tuesday confirmed it was OK. The gearing is probably a little low for riding around town, but as I am sticking with the 10-speed, it should be perfect when the bike is loaded up in Ireland

I HAVE been working hard on the routes in the south-west of Ireland and the research has led to a change of heart - I am now incorporating the beautiful Blackwater Valley into the route plan.
This is partly just to have a change of scene - all that coastline can be a bit much - but it is also because this is a neglected bit of Ireland, crossed by tour buses heading elswhere with perhaps just a whistlestop at the the Rock of Cashel. I think this will be a beautiful addition to the tours even though it it a bit of a nightmare fitting everything in.

This week I completed the desk work for the Kerry section of the book meaning seven of the 12 routes have now been researched.
I've also started to think about preparing the bike for the summer ahead.
The weapon of choice is a 1980s 10-speed Raleigh Routier, pretty much in its original configuration.